As one of Champagne’s most respected figures, Dominique Demarville brings both tradition and innovation to the storied house of Lallier. After decades shaping some of the region’s most iconic cuvées, he now leads Lallier with a clear vision: to craft precise, terroir-driven champagnes that reflect the soul of Aÿ. In this exclusive interview, Demarville shares his philosophy, his path to Lallier, and what the future holds for the maison under his guidance.
Exclusive interview with Dominique Demarville, Lallier CEO & Cellar Master
Andreas Conrad: How has your personal signature influenced the style of Maison Lallier since you joined, and where do you consciously set new accents compared to your previous roles at houses like Veuve Clicquot or Mumm?
Dominique Demarville: I joined Lallier in January 2021, and my first priority was to understand and craft the blend for Réflexion. This non-vintage Champagne is quite innovative. It’s built on the house’s signature style, but with a dominant influence from the character of the harvest year. Unlike traditional non-vintage blends, consistency isn’t the goal here; each Réflexion has its own personality. What remains constant is the Lallier identity, defined by the perfect balance of our four core emotions: Purity, Freshness, Intensity, and Depth.
My second focus was expanding our parcellaire approach, selecting specific vineyard plots for single-parcel vinification. I also worked closely with our partner growers to encourage this philosophy. Today, we collaborate with 15 growers who share this approach, and our goal is to reach 30 by 2027.
I’ve also had the opportunity to oversee the construction of a new winery in Oger, designed to elevate our quality standards and attention to detail even further.
Andreas Conrad: What do you see as the greatest challenge in the Champagne world today – climate change or the evolving expectations of consumers?
Dominique Demarville: Both are major challenges. Climate change is forcing us to rethink how we work in the vineyard and in the cellar. At Lallier, for example, we’re closely monitoring malolactic fermentation and using lighter dosage to adapt to these changes.
At the same time, consumer expectations are evolving. People are seeking more authenticity and quality. Our cuvées like Réflexion and Ouvrage are a direct response to this shift. Réflexion stands out among non-vintage Champagnes by embracing the unique character of the dominant harvest year, rather than aiming for uniformity. Ouvrage, our prestige cuvée, is crafted using a parcellaire approach and meticulous, artisanal methods to deliver precision, intuition, and authenticity.
Andreas Conrad: Lallier places great emphasis on the concept of “Réflexion Terroir” – how do you personally define this, and how does it influence your decisions in the cellar?
Dominique Demarville: Réflexion is the perfect balance between Lallier’s house style and the character of the harvest year that leads the blend. It’s a new philosophy in the world of non-vintage Champagne. I often compare it to a family: each Réflexion blend shares the same DNA, but each one has its own personality; like siblings with distinct traits.
It’s always the first blend we create each year, and we dedicate all our energy and expertise to its development. Every detail in the vineyard and cellar is considered with the goal of achieving the ideal balance. The diversity and richness of the wines available to us before blending Réflexion is a true treasure, it’s what allows us to craft such a unique and expressive Champagne.
Andreas Conrad: How do you assess the current balance between tradition and technology in Champagne production? Are there any innovations you consider truly enriching?
Dominique Demarville: Technology should serve tradition. Champagne has been made for centuries using time-honored methods, but today we can enhance quality and precision thanks to technological support.
One innovation I find particularly enriching is yeast selection. In the 1970s, it helped improve the finesse of our wines. Now, with more advanced tools, we can go even further, selecting yeast strains from specific vineyard parcels to enhance expression.
Technology also plays a key role in sustainability. For example, when we built our new winery in Oger last year, we installed solar panels to reduce our carbon footprint.
Andreas Conrad: Looking back, is there a particular vintage year that had a significant impact on you – whether climatically, personally, or sensorially – and why?
Dominique Demarville: Absolutely. 2021 stands out as one of the most significant years for me. It was the first time I was involved in crafting Réflexion from harvest to blend. It was a very challenging year in the vineyard, with poor weather from April to July and low yields. But thanks to a beautiful late summer, the quality was surprisingly good. The resulting Réflexion R021 is now on the market, and I’m proud of its balance and expression of Lallier’s four emotions.
I also have a deep appreciation for 2008, for its finesse and energy, and 2002, for its depth and power.
Andreas Conrad: What, in your opinion, defines a truly great Champagne – is it precision, finesse, or perhaps even a certain imperfection that adds depth?
Dominique Demarville: Creating a great Champagne, or any great wine, is about attention to detail at every stage, from vineyard to bottle. Imperfection comes from nature, which gives us a different vintage each year, with its own flavors and nuances.
Traditionally, non-vintage Champagne aims for consistency year after year. At Lallier, with our Réflexion philosophy, we embrace the character of the harvest year and balance it with our four emotional pillars. As a Chef de Caves, I find it exciting to work with nature’s imperfections while striving for perfection through blending. To me, a truly great Champagne is a harmonious blend of imperfection and perfection.
Andreas Conrad: How do you envision the role of Lallier in the next generation of Champagne – as a quiet classic or as a pioneer in a changing market?
Dominique Demarville: Definitely as a pioneer. Réflexion represents a new way of thinking about non-vintage Champagne. And Ouvrage, our prestige cuvée, is built on a parcellaire approach that’s still relatively new in Champagne. We’re committed to pushing boundaries while staying true to our values.
Q8: What are your thoughts on luxury and lifestyle magazines like FrontRowSociety – The Magazine, and the fact that we dedicate ourselves so deeply to wine and Champagne?
Luxury and lifestyle magazines are incredibly valuable partners. Thanks to your support, we’re able to share our philosophy with curious and passionate readers. Your commitment to both innovation and tradition is a great asset for luxury brands. You celebrate beautiful, rare products made with care and creativity and that’s exactly what we strive for every day: creation and attention to detail.
More information:
Lallier
4 Place Libération
51160 Aÿ-Champagne
Frankreich
More about Champagner Lallier:
Champagne Lallier: Von 1906 bis zur modernen Grand-Cru-Ikone in Aÿ
