Mineral water is an essential ingredient in food pairings as it enhances the flavours of dishes and refreshes the palate. Choosing the right water – whether sparkling or still – can significantly enhance the enjoyment experience. Water sommeliers assist in selecting the optimal mineral water, taking into account its mineral composition, carbonation and flavour nuances to complement the food.
In order to be able to share experiences worldwide, we rely on experts in various countries to give us their views on the subject of mineral water. Ruriko Suzuki was one of the six jury members who selected the best mineral water in the world at the Fine Water Taste Awards 2024 in San Sebastian, Spain. 120 different mineral waters from almost 40 countries had to be tasted.
Exclusive Interview with Ruriko Suzuki, Water Sommelier and Jury Member of Fine Water Summit
Andreas Conrad: What criteria do you use to evaluate the quality and flavour of water?
Ruriko Suzuki: I will discuss this question in the context of EU and Japanese waters. One of the criteria I use to judge the quality of EU water is whether it is labeled „natural mineral water.“ In the EU, natural mineral water is recognized only after passing strict quality and environmental assessments. Water sources listed in the CODEX list are considered to guarantee good quality. However, whether the water is delicious can depend on the drinker’s diet and preferences, so that is a separate matter.
Next, I will talk about what is the case in my country, Japan.
The standards for mineral water in Japan are set by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries. In fact, Japanese water can call itself natural mineral water even if it is heat sterilized. I think EU water sommeliers would be surprised about this.
Water in Japan is very clear and low mineral, and in many areas people drink tap water as it is. Therefore, the history of purchasing and drinking water is still young. In Japan, bottled water is positioned as a food product. It is assumed that the reason water is now heated and bottled is due to the food sanitation concept that water should be heated and sterilized before bottling, just as juice and other soft drinks are heated and sterilized before bottling.
Recently, the number of brands that focus on the taste of water has been gradually increasing in Japan. As a result, bottled water without heat treatment and treated only with filtration filters is also on the rise. While there are differences in mineral content depending on the water source, I believe there is a difference in taste between heat-treated and non-heat-treated water. As a Japanese water sommelier, when evaluating the quality of Japanese water, I give a good rating to water that comes from a specific water source and is bottled without heat treatment if I find it tasty.
Andreas Conrad: Which glasses are best suited for water tasting?
Ruriko Suzuki: I consider a stemmed water glass or a white wine glass to be the best way to drink water. A glass with a stem allows you to see the bubbles and sometimes minerals floating in the water. The condition of the water can be observed better. It goes well with other wine glasses and tableware and looks good on the table. The glass I choose for drinking better water is a thin glass with a stem. When water enters the mouth, the thinner the part of the glass that touches the lips, the better the water tastes. I personally recommend LOBMEYR glasses, an Austrian brand.
Andreas Conrad: Are there certain regions or sources that are known for outstanding water and what makes them special?
Ruriko Suzuki: I consider all of the water sources on the CODEX list to be excellent.Therefore, I would like to introduce one precious water source in Japan.
There is a rare source of naturally carbonated water in Japan. It is the „Oku-Aizu Kaneyama“ water source. The source is located in the town of Kanayama in the Aizu region of Fukushima Prefecture. Oku-Aizu Kaneyama“ has a long history and was first marketed around 1875. It is unusual in that it is a naturally carbonated water despite its low mineral content (TDS 200 mg/L). It is slightly carbonated, and with a limited number of bottlings per day, it is positioned, in my opinion, like the French CHATELDON in Japan.
Andreas Conrad: How do different types of water differ in terms of mineral content, pH and flavour profile?
Ruriko Suzuki: Low mineral water has a sweet, mellow, and clean taste. Even low mimeral water has a slight acidity if the pH is acidic, and a light sweetness and mildness are added if the pH is above 8. When the mineral content is medium or higher, the mineral taste is stronger, and salty and astringent tastes are more noticeable. Low mineral water is good for everyday hydration, but water above medium mineral has a stronger character and can be more enjoyable when paired with food.
Andreas Conrad: Can you tell us about the history and culture of water tasting and assessment?
Ruriko Suzuki: Many people know that sake is Japan’s representative alcoholic beverage. The taste of sake varies depending on the type of rice used, but the water used in the brewing process also influences the flavor. Therefore, sake has traditionally been described as either „sweet“ or „dry.“ In the past, it was sometimes said that if the water was sweet, the sake would be „sweet,“ and if the water was hard, the sake would be „dry.“
As a result, people have become sensitive to the taste of water, with some regions describing low-mineral water as „sweet“ and water with a certain amount of minerals as „dry.“
In modern times, the evaluation of bottled water in Japan began in 2008 with the opening of the Aqua Sommelier Certification School. At this school, Japan’s water sommeliers taste and evaluate bottled water. Their evaluation criteria are based on hardness rather than TDS. They use the American method of hardness calculation to classify water into soft water, medium-hard water, and hard water, and analyze the taste accordingl
Andreas Conrad: What role does sustainablity and environment impact play in the selection of water sources tasting?
Ruriko Suzuki: In many regions, the use of aluminum cans and paper cartons for products has been increasing to protect the environment. This is wonderful when it comes to hydration and caring for the environment. However, when it comes to tasting, the increase in aluminum can and paper carton products poses some challenges. The smell and taste of paper or aluminum can affect the tasting experience. It would be ideal if all products could be in glass bottles, but due to company policies and cost issues, this is not always possible.
Andreas Conrad: Are there any trends of developments in the world of water tasting that you find particularly interesting?
Ruriko Suzuki: A recent trend in Japan (2024) shows that many brands are paying close attention to the components of their water sources. More people are prioritizing consuming products that are as beneficial to the body as possible. In terms of water composition, many brands now prominently display nitrate levels, promoting their water as having low nitrate content and coming from pristine sources.
Additionally, because Japan has water sources rich in silica, many products in recent years have highlighted the benefits and effects of silica, promoting its connection to beauty and health.
Moreover, there is a unique product developed in Japan called „XYZ Down.“ This product uses natural water and bottles it after artificially reducing the size of its molecules. It is popular among beauty enthusiasts as a hydration water due to its characteristic of being easily absorbed by the body. Developed over 10 years ago, it continues to be sold today.
Andreas Conrad: How do refional differnces in soil and climate affect the flavour and composition of water?
Ruriko Suzuki: It is well known that differences in soil can result in water with varying compositions, affecting its taste. When people from regions with primarily low-mineral water drink water from countries where high-mineral water is common, they are often surprised by the difference. However, people from low-mineral regions, including myself, are more sensitive to taste because we are accustomed to drinking water with low mineral content. We can appreciate even the subtle differences in low-mineral water.
Andreas Conrad: What methods do you use to taste and analyse water?
Ruriko Suzuki: I line up three to five stemmed glasses of water at room temperature for comparison. Besides the brand I am tasting, I also prepare a standard water for reference. While tasting, including the standard water, I try to detect the sweetness, bitterness, saltiness, and metallic taste, which are influenced by the minerals in each.
Andreas Conrad: Can you tell us about the challenges and prejudices that water sommeliers face in the industry?
Ruriko Suzuki: In Japan, a common issue is that many people believe affordable domestic water is sufficient compared to purchasing expensive foreign water.
In a country like Japan, where there is plenty of clear and tasty water, the benefits of high-mineral water are often not well understood. Instead of seeking out the delicious high-mineral waters available abroad, there is a tendency to be content with domestic low-mineral water. Even for carbonated water, more people seem to be satisfied with low-mineral water with added carbonation.
Considering the costs associated with transportation and import fees, it is understandable that many people hold this view. The day when high-mineral bottled water is treated as a luxury item, like wine or other beverages, and selected from a lineup of waters at restaurants, may still be far off.
Andreas Conrad: How would you describe the influence of packaging and presentation on the perception and evaluation of water?
Ruriko Suzuki: Beautiful packaging can sometimes positively influence the evaluation of water tasting. However, if the water is provided blind from the beginning, the packaging evaluation is not considered.
In presentations, if there is an explanation of the source, it can slightly enhance the impression. However, individual preferences vary, with some people liking salty tastes and others preferring sweet tastes, so not all evaluations will necessarily be positive.
